A personal foreword by Yash Dixit on travelling India for food (the chaos), the reward, and why every hundred miles brings a completely different world. continue reading
Irani chai in a white ceramic cup, osmania biscuits, and a fine biscuit that looks like a palmier. Hyderabad's most iconic chai spot at Lakdi Ka Pul deserves to be as famous as the biryani. continue reading
Whether it's 6am or 11pm, if you see a bustling chai shop near Charminar, it's Nimrah. Irani chai, tai biscuit, fine biscuit, and bun malai maska, all with a view of the Charminar. continue reading
The city of joy runs on bhars, small clay cups of thin, strong chai sold at every corner. In Kolkata, chai is not a habit. It is the city itself. continue reading
Chai is not a beverage in India. It is an occasion. A journey through the most iconic chai stops across the country, from Amritsar to Kolkata. continue reading
At Crystal Chowk, Amritsar, since before memory: thick elaichi chai, frothy and served in two glasses, with politics on the walls and bun maska on the side. Rated 7/10. continue reading
Since 1946, at the center of Jaipur on MI Road, with holes in the table to hold your glass, kulhads, and a creamy Rajasthani chai with more milk than water. Rated 7.5/10. continue reading
Five minutes from Bundi Fort, Krishna Ji brews chai to order, sells postcards painted by his brother, and asks Shiva for nothing but happiness. Some places are beyond ratings. continue reading
Open since 4am, for 75 years, in the oldest part of Kashi. The chai is fine, but the coal-toasted bread and the caesarean toast are the real reason to go. Rated 9/10. continue reading
Lucknow's take on noon chai: pink, slightly salty, served in the evenings with khari broken in and malai floated on top. Not for everyone, but unforgettable if it's for you. continue reading
A morning institution in Lucknow's chowk area, the kind of chai shop that becomes a routine before you even realise it. continue reading
From Jodhpur's puffy pyaaz kachoris to Kolkata's club kachoris, a first-hand map of how kachoris change shape, texture, and soul as you move east across India. continue reading
Flat, large, slightly doughy inside, Aligarh kachoris are unlike anything else on the trail. Served with spicy aloo sabzi and raita, and weighted with personal memory. Rated 9/10. continue reading
Delhi serves two distinct kachori styles, khasta dal kachori with fiery aloo subzi, and flat kachoris topped with chole. A decade of eating at Shri Ganesh Corner has made it personal. Rated 8.5/10. continue reading
Indore's kachori culture is tied to its legendary snack scene (aloo kachori with chutney), fresh onions on top, and a poha pairing that just works. Rated 7.5/10. continue reading
Jaipur's kachoris are not its strongest suit, but hing kachori with dahi is a genuinely unique combination worth seeking out. Rated 6.5/10. continue reading
Jodhpur is the flagship city for kachoris in India (pyaaz kachori), mawa kachori, dal kachori, and more. A strong 9/10. continue reading
Kolkata's club kachoris are puri-like, hing-filled, and distinctly Bengali. I've only scratched the surface here, rating is pending until I explore more. continue reading
Kota is serious about its kachoris, dal kachori with a punched hole and chutney pour is the OG. Six spots tried, all a consistent 8/10. continue reading
Lucknow serves two kachori styles, khasta and puri, both super spicy and deeply satisfying. Still more to explore here. Rated 7.5/10. continue reading
A slight let-down from expectations, but Varanasi has two distinct kachori types, the most chaotic queues in India, and its own charm. Rated 6/10. continue reading